Sewing - Bike Stick Holder
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(Photos on this page show a different hiking stick from the one I currently carry, but result is the same.)
Carries hiking stick on front fork, in quick-draw position for defense against dogs. Rubber tip should be removed and stored elsewhere before inserting stick into holder. Otherwise, rubber tip will come off when stick is withdrawn and become stuck in holder. Also, stick is far more effective as a weapon with sharp carbide tip exposed. Top of stick hung from extra steerer protruding above stem. I would carry the hiking stick using the stick holder even if dogs were not a problem, since I need a hiking stick to support the front of my tarp.
Stick can be positioned against underside of rear rack, to prop bike up. I sometimes use this feature when cleaning/lubing the chain in the field. For bikes with derailleurs, stick can be positioned to hold rear wheel off ground, allowing adjustment of derailleurs in the field. Front wheel should be immobilized using brake band when using stick to prop bike up. Click-stand max with fat-foot and center-bracket (plus 2 spare elastic bands for center-bracket) at 100g is an alternative for propping bike up, but doesn't provide protection from dogs. Click-stand not sturdy enough to reliably lift rear wheel off ground to allow adjustment of derailleurs. Neither hiking stick, nor click-stand, nor regular kick-stand should be relied upon to hold bike upright when unattended, especially if possibility of strong wind gusts. Instead, lay bike on ground or lean against wall or other strong support.
Stick-holder does not interfere with my home-made front panniers attached to Thorn front racks. I do not know whether the stick-holder would interfere with Ortlieb panniers on these or other racks.
Some bike tourists swear by Halt!, which is a pepper spray designed to be used on dogs. Others squirt dogs in the face with household ammonia loaded in a water pistol. I am skeptical of such chemical methods, though perhaps they work well. A stick has the advantage of controlled application. For a puppy that simply doesn't know what it is doing, merely jab the stick at the dog without hitting it. For a larger but still not vicious dog, poke the dog in the ribs. For a vicious pit bull, poke the dog in the eye. A stick can be used multiple times and can't possibly fail, whereas chemicals could leak or lose pressure or run out. If stored in the sheath shown above, a stick is both secure from falling out when hitting a bump, yet ready to be withdrawn quickly when needed. Whereas chemicals stored loosely risk getting lost, and chemicals stored securely might take too long to withdraw when needed (a handgun would have the same problem). So even if chemicals are effective, there are still many reasons to prefer a stick.
If cut according to following instructions and attached to my Thorn Nomad bike, ideal stick length is 32". This length puts top of stick even with top of steerer. Holder weighs 30 grams (not counting the stick).
Instructions:
- Cutting dimensions depend on stick and fork. Holder might not work properly on forks lacking bosses or other irregularities to keep straps in place.
- Body: Cut strip of 1000d coated cordura 5" x 21". Fold over 3.5" on bottom and stitch with multiple lines of stitching and zigzag top seam flush so tip of hiking stick won't snag. Double-layer of fabric on bottom acts as reinforcement, since tip of hiking stick is abrasive. Stitch 1/2" semi-hems (fold once so there are 2 layers of fabric, rather than folding twice as with true hems) on side and top. Fold and stitch sides and bottom, then triple stitch bottom. Final size: 2" x 17".
- Straps: Cut strips of 1000d coated cordura 6.5" x 3" and 5.5" x 3". 1/2" semi-hems on all sides, so that finished sizes are 5.5" x 2" and 4.5" x 2". Cut two 2" squares of hook-and-loop. Sew hook pieces to coated sides of straps, loop sides to uncoated sides. Attach straps to body so that upper strap goes between plates of fork crown and lower strap is just above front rack boss.
- Apply fray-check to all stitching.