Jun-Aug 2023, Serbia (hiking)

Mon, 29 May 2023

Flight delayed 4 hours, so arrived in Belgrade airport about 17:40. At baggage claim area, changed euros to Serbian dinar at airport (about $1 = 100 RSD/dinar), bought SIM card with Yettel (600 RSD for 15GB for 15 days, plus unlimited local minutes and SMS). Took red minibus A1 to city center. Same mix of Russian and Bulgarian that works in Bulgaria seems to work here, though English levels much higher here than in rural Bulgaria. Accommodations through booking.com unless otherwise noted.

Garden Apartments, 11725 RSD for 3 nights. Pullup bars in nearby Čuburski Park (Makenzijeva at Cara Nikolaja III).

Thu, 01 Jun 2023

Bus to Niš for 1800 RSD. Better availability of cheap apartments in Niš than Beograd, plus smaller city, which suits my current mood, plus I'm heading that way anyway.

Bianco nero appartamento, 11255 RSD for 4 nights. Pullup bars in Park Čair (near northeast corner).

Mon, 05 Jun 2023

Downloaded maps and made other plans for hiking Sultan's Trail, starting from near Hungarian border, or other end of Serbia from Niš. Downloaded FSI SerboCroat language course and did first lesson. Lots of similarities with Russian and/or Bulgarian.

V & V Apartment, 16000 RSD for 7 nights. (Arranged 2 additional weeks later.) Host and I spoke in French. He used to live in Lyon and has relatives living in France and Geneva.

Mon, 12 Jun 2023

Annual blood tests at local laboratory. Similar prices as in Kyiv and Chisinau. Woman running lab only spoke Serbian but managed to understand my mix of English, Russian and Bulgarian plus some words of Serbian learned from FSI course. Results by email in evening.

Wed, 14 Jun 2023

Yettel service that I bought is one-time promotion which cannot be renewed. Option to either buy another promotion with new number for 15 days for 600 RSD, or switch to 50 GB internet only package for 30 days for 1000 RSD. I took 30 day option. If necessary, use Google Voice for voice calls.

Sun, 25 Jun 2023

Enjoyed my stay in Niš, but need to get moving again lest I get stagnant. Becoming more and more resistant to change of routine as I get older. Need to add Serbia Sultan's Trail to routine soon, while change still possible.

New schedule to replace summers in Ukraine: 3 months Spain (Mar-May), 3 months Serbia (June in Belgrade, July-Aug hiking Sultan's Trail), week in Macedonia (compliance with 90/180 rule after Bulgaria joins Schengen), 2 months Bulgaria (Sep-Oct), 4 months USA (Nov-Feb). 3 flights: USA-Spain, Spain-Belgrade, Sofia-USA. Bus travel between Serbia, Macedonia, Bulgaria. Make sure to stay at most 89 days in Spain, to allow 1 day for crossing Danube via Croatia (which is Schengen) at Bačka Palanka on Sultan's Trail.

After permanent move to Europe, replace 4 months in USA with additional time in Serbia and other Balkan countries. For example: 3 months Spain (Mar-May), fly to Sofia/Skopje/Sarajevo, week in Macedonia or Bosnia (compliance with 90/180 rules), 3 months Serbia (Jun-Aug), 3 months Bulgaria (Sep-Nov), week in Macedonia (compliance with 90/180 rules), 3 months Serbia (Dec-Feb). So only 2 flights per year: Belgrade-Madrid, Spain-Sofia/Skopje/Sarajevo. Winter in Moldova (Nov) and Ukraine (Dec-Feb) also possible. 14 passport entry/exit stamps per year (including same day enter/exit Croatia), so need large size passport book in future.

Long-term visa for Serbia (or Ukraine, as per original plan) would make things simpler from travel point of view. But perpetual tourist option (3 winter and 3 summer months in Serbia, with short stays in Macedonia or Bosnia to comply with 90/180 rules) might be cheaper, depending on cost of long-term visa for Serbia, as well as simpler from paperwork point of view. For example, suppose visa costs $3000, or about $14/night for 7 months. Instead of $36/night accommodation on long-term visa, $50/night as perpetual tourist. Especially outside summer high season, should be easy to find accommodation for indefinite future at $50/night (adjusted yearly for USA inflation) in Serbia, Bosnia, Macedonia, Bulgaria, Moldova, Ukraine.

Another possibility is continued annual USA visit for one month (either Nov or Feb) but most of winter in Europe. Initial step after giving up winter bicycle touring. Eliminates immediate need for reliable Europe storage locker. Currently testing storage locker in Ukraine. Need additional test in Belgrade. Initially store small amount of replacement gear, then gradually increase. Want to minimize impact if storage locker contents lost for whatever reason.

Mon, 26 Jun 2023

Bus to Novi Sad, 2690 RSD. Wasted 510 RSD on train ticket from Novi Sad to Sombor thinking I was buying bus ticket. Should have asked if this was bus ticket window instead of assuming it was. Train would have meant much later arrival, plus renovations in progress at train station so shuttle bus required to get to temporary station, making for big nuisance. Took bus instead: 1240 RSD. Bus from Novi Sad to Sombor runs every hour or so.

Studio Apartment Burek, 3100 RSD for 2 nights. Pullup bars in park on Prvomajski Bulevar, about 200m southwest of Stararski Put, so near bus station.

Wed, 28 Jun 2023

Bus to Bački Breg, 430 RSD. Departures 6:10, 7:30, 11:45. Earlier in June, prior to end of school year, there is also 10:00 bus. I took 11:45. Late departure probably best because rain in morning, then stopped around noon. Trail overgrown and GPX wrong in places, but I managed to find my way using OpenAndroMaps map.

Bezdan Guesthouse, 1700 RSD.

bački canal

Thu, 29 Jun 2023

Bački Monistor Koba, 1170 RSD. Pullups using football/basketball goals in park just south of village center.

bački canal road, not much of a view but quiet and pleasant walking

Fri, 30 Jun 2023

GPX led me into brush, so longer walk than expected, plus unpleasant walking due to spider webs everywhere, nettles, mosquitoes, heat because necessary to keep pants legs tucked into socks for protection from possible ticks/chiggers. At least I learned how dense Serbian brush can be. Easier hiking once I pushed my way to farm roads. Arrived in Sombor after about 4.5 hours. Sobe Ana, 3200 RSD for 2 nights.

veliki bački canal

Sun, 2 Jul 2023

Easy walking, mostly dirt roads through cultivated fields, with about 1km overgrown road through forest. Tripped and fell in Apatin, from combination of tiredness, hurrying and distraction. Tiredness can't be avoided, but hurrying unnecessary, and distraction related to hurrying. Most falls in recent years have been in the city, typically because influenced by other people hurrying and then distracted by hurrying. Need to walk at same slow careful pace as in nature. Fall caused light abrasion to knee and about 3" gash in pants leg. Pants look okay enough after sewing closed, and not high-stress area so stitching should hold until November. Spare pants in packing list, but nevertheless good example of why I need storage locker somewhere in Europe with full set of spare equipment plus sewing machine and materials.

Apatin apartment for 1800 RSD. Pullup bars in yard of school whose entrance on side street off Duška Trifunovića Ulica.

sunflowers

Mon, 3 Jul 2023

Long 29km walk through fields. Kuca za odmor Daca Bogojevo for 3500 RSD. Smelly water from tap so buy at store tomorrow. Yapping from dogs next door ruined what would otherwise be nice apartment.

Tue, 4 Jul 2023

Overcast, so not as hot as yesterday. Tedious road walk to Karavykovo. (Pullups possible using football goal at school in center of town, on GPX.) Thereafter, pleasant walk along canal to Deronje, not at all overgrown. GPX crosses bridge here, but trail guide says fish farm discourages use of west side canal road, so stayed on east side another 4km. After crossing irrigation ditch, road becomes overgrown. Evidence that someone recently trimmed overgrowth, at least for first 100m, which is as far as I went, but total distance from irrigation ditch to Bač about 4km, and possibly trimming not finished. I had no desire to tangle with dense brush again, so backtracked and took farm road shown on map which parallels irrigation ditch then connects with paved road leading into Bač. Pullups possible using basketball goal at sports complex just north of bridge, along GPX.

Pansion Jakić, 2 nights for 3600 RSD. Also made reservation in Bačka Palanka for 3 nights. Something happening in Novi Sad this weekend so that all lodging on booking.com full or with elevated rates. Situation back to normal starting Monday. So need to go slow until then. Might take bus from Bačka Palanka to Novi Sad, since no trail guide for this section and might be unpleasant walking. GPX crosses to other side of Danube, but crossing through Croatia and I can't enter Schengen again until September.

dunav-tisa canal road

Wed, 5 Jul 2023

bač fortress

Thu, 6 Jul 2023

Locked gate at north end of Karadjordjevo nature preserve, so followed farm roads shown on map. Upon rejoining GPX at paved road, backtracked along GPX to south end of nature preserve, where guard informed me that nature preserve is now used by military. Good thing I didn't bypass gate using rickety stile to cross fence next to gate.

Started day with 4L in bottles plus 1L yogurt and fruit, but used more than that because of heat. So added 5L from store in Mladenovo, because unsure as to quality of well water, though I saw locals filling bottles at tap in center of town. So about 4L for tomorrow, along with loaf of bread, enough to get to Bačka Palanka. Might be able to do pullups using goals at football field in Mladenovo, which is along GPX.

Camped about 1km from south end of Mladenovo, open spot at edge of cultivated field of maize, stealthy, shaded from afternoon sun but nevertheless hot, mosquito infested. Fence a few meters away, with forest on other side with open spaces for camping. Might be possible to enter forest by road, or might be locked gate like at natural preserve earlier today. Despite shade, under tarp and inside bugbivy felt like sweatbox until well after darkness.

first campsite in serbia

Fri, 7 Jul 2023

Lots of wild boar and deer sounds nearby during night. Sun in morning quickly burned off dew from tarp then heat became intolerable, so earlier than intended start. Skipped morning exercises and breakfast because of hordes of mosquitoes. Because of sweating yesterday day and evening and again this morning after sunrise, body as filthy as after three or more nights camping in Spain or Mojave desert. All this unpleasantness typical of lowland summer camping. Nights would be cooler in mountains, but more ascending in heat plus lack of late afternoon shade in alpine mountains. Next time, make an early start and hike extra 3 hours to Bačka Palanka.

About 2km from campsite, GPX turns at gate to nature preserve. Large sign on gate reading "close gate", however grass growing around base of open gate, so evidently open for several weeks or longer. Saw a family of wild boar not far from gate.

BOJANA12 apartment in Bačka Palanka, 3 nights for 8100 RSD. Pullup bars at Slavka Rodića 22-24 and two locations along Šetalište Milana Janića (road to Danube beach). Made booking.com reservations for next week, in Novi Sad until Saturday to wait out heat wave.

Sat, 8 Jul 2023

Felt tired in morning. Maybe all this sweating is exhausting my body of minerals, or maybe just getting old. Supposedly, tolerance for heat declines with age. Anyway, week to recover before resuming hiking.

danube river

Mon, 10 Jul 2023

Bus to Novi Sad, 550 RSD. 5 nights at Downtown dell Arte, 15090 RSD. Pullup bar in Limanski Park. Pullups also possible using junky exercise equipment along riverside walking path about 400m northeast of Most Sloboda bridge.

Heat forecast to continue through July. In the future, plan on June and July in Belgrade, then three weeks hiking to Niš, week in Macedonia for 90/180 rule compliance, arrive in Bulgaria in September. So won't be repeating section of Sultan's Trail in northern Serbia.

Fri, 14 Jul 2023

Bought another 30 day Yettel data-only SIM package. First store didn't sell any prepaid cards whereas store in Promenada mall did. Unbelievable that Yettel doesn't simply allow renewing SIM versus buying, installing, activating new SIM.

Sat, 15 Jul 2023

Walked to Sremski Karlovci. 6000 RSD for 2 nights at Apartment Sunflower. 34°C today, forecast for 39°C Monday, so might stay more nights until heat wave passed. Pullup bar at sports field (Dvorska Bašta).

Sun, 16 Jul 2023

Paid for 3 more nights for 8000 RSD.

Wed, 19 Jul 2023

Heat wave finally broke with furious thunderstorm this evening. Of course, rain means possible mud tomorrow. Difficulty planning because of limited accommodations in booking.com. Planning easier in Spain and Bulgaria because of option of camping. Increasing doubts about hiking in Serbia in heat of summer. Maybe just walk when walking convenient, otherwise take bus, stay multiple days in each town. Like I've been doing last two weeks. No need to spend all of June and July in Belgrade. Small towns just as interesting. Simplifies life if no longer focused on big city social activities. But continue to bring dress shirt and dance flats, so as to be prepared for anything.

Thu, 20 Jul 2023

Mud in places but not bad. Lots of fallen branches because of last night's wind, lots of mosquitoes because of rain. Landlady said power went out at 10pm. I was in bed with lights off then so didn't notice. Only 32°C today and some clouds to keep sun away, but felt hotter because of humidity. Walked with shirt off for several hours and got mildly sunburned. Neglected to get base tan in Spain. Eyes and skin around eyes inflamed, either another attack of covid conjunctivitis or from salty perspiration running down face all day. 3500 RSD at DND Apartman in Indjija. Pullup bars in nearby Park Kralja Dragutina, along Novosadski Street (park full of branches and even whole trees blown down during last night's thunderstorm). Made booking.com reservations for tomorrow and Saturday.

Fri, 21 Jul 2023

Short day because nothing acceptable available in Nova Pazova in booking.com and also because temperature 35°C and humid and don't want another long day like yesterday. Tried to leave highway for dirt roads shown on map, but difficulty crossing railway because dense brush on either side and between dual tracks: reminder that bushwhacking can make for extremely slow going. Didn't want to risk denser brush when trying to recross railway to return to highway, so backtracked and walked another 5km along highway. 3000 RSD at Villa Atina Hotel in Stara Pazova. Another furious evening thunderstorm. Junky but usable pullup bar in park along Karadjordjeva (main street) just south of Svetosavska.

Sat, 22 Jul 2023

Temperature mild in morning. Very pleasant sitting in shade in park eating breakfast. Heated up later in day (31°C). Sidewalk along highway between Stara Pazova and Nova Pazova, then grassy road to side of highway between Nova Pazova and Batajnica. Graffiti on wall: "Migrants not welcome!" Not sure who these migrants are or what they look like, but I certainly don't look like a respectable citizen myself hiking alongside highways in blazing heat with homemade backpack, dirty hat, military boots, etc. Police have yet to question me however. Highway hiking in blazing heat not particularly enjoyable, but consolation is apartments I'm staying in, which are nicer than even luxury hotels (last night was hotel, though not luxury). As long as I keep distance hiked each day short, better to hike like I'm doing than not hike. 3500 RSD at Studio Pop Art in Batajnica. Another evening thunderstorm.

Sun, 23 Jul 2023

Moderate heat. Another highway walk, sometimes right next to traffic, sometimes using sidewalk or footpath through grass. 3100 RSD at Mala Bela Apartman in Zemun. Pullup bar in Jelovac Park or use basketball goal (one next to apartment, another next to Maxi supermarket on Gornjogradska).

Mon, 24 Jul 2023

Heat tolerable due to moderate humidity. Pullup bars at several spots along river walk park. 4200 RSD at Apartman Marija, towards south side of Belgrade. Pullup bars along path in Bajfordova Šuma park, just north of Hotel M.

Tue, 25 Jul 2023

Warm and humid, but tolerable because sun hidden by clouds. GPX followed dirt road overgrown by brush, thorns, spider webs. Clothing soaking wet from perspiration by time I reached hotel. 6020 RSD at Hotel Sucevic Garni, on highway near Beli Potok. Would be 5050 RSD if booked directly, outside booking.com.

Wed, 26 Jul 2023

Hotel last night was comfortable and quiet, but for some reason I woke up around 2AM and then had trouble getting back to sleep. Skipped morning exercises other than pushups. Temperature much cooler (27°C) and mostly overcast with light drizzle in afternoon, so comfortable walking weather for a change. Trail terribly overgrown in places, including with thorns that caused small tear in pants leg, just above tear from Apatin, and small tear in shirt. Will sew up tears tomorrow. 4160 RSD at Marina OASA Hotel in Grocka, booked directly through hotel website (www.marinaoasa.com). Bungalow rooms only 2800 RSD. Not sure why I chose hotel room instead. Very nice room regardless.

Overgrowth will soon make trail impassible, given how fast vegetation grows in this area, so I'm starting to think Sultan's Trail in Serbia is maybe not something I want to repeat. Torn clothing and gear is simply too big a risk. Plus trail has not been very scenic up until today. So back to drawing board on summer plans for future. At least I'm getting exposure to lots of small towns and apartments in Serbia.

forest track

Thu, 27 Jul 2023

Temperature even cooler than yesterday. Dirt roads mostly clear of overgrowth. Puddles and mud in places, so evidently rained last night. My first day of truly pleasant walking in Serbia. 2500 RSD at Smeštaj Vasić in Smederevo, which is nicest town since Sombor. So if planning next year to stay week at a time in small towns/cities in future summers in Serbia, this would be excellent candidate. Don't want to linger this year because temperatures starting to heat up again and I need moderate temps to camp comfortably night after leaving Smederevo. Pullup bars in park along Danube, southwest of fortress, or Park Tri Heroja, near fortress, or use children's playground equipment.

apple trees

Fri, 28 Jul 2023

Warmer than yesterday but okay hiking weather. Mostly clean dirt roads, with one overgrown stretch of about 500m which could probably be bypassed using parallel dirt road. Maybe buy clippers in Belgrade to handle these occasional overgrown sections, and help future hikers. Bought water and food for tomorrow at store in Mihajlovac. Camped in forest just off road. Dense forest, so stealthy location. Mosquito infested, so rolled down shirt sleeves and pants legs and donned headnet to set up camp, then stood around in nearby field until body cooled down some. AccuWeather says 27°C as of 20:00, and 15°C by 05:00 tomorrow, so should be okay sleeping.

smederevo riverside park, fortress in distance

camped in forest

Sat, 29 Jul 2023

Temperature not a problem but nevertheless slept poorly, maybe because noise from expressway 2km to east or maybe chocolate I ate in morning for first time in several days. Skipped morning exercises and delayed breakfast because of mosquitoes. Easy hiking on dirt roads, with almost no overgrowth, but too warm for comfort, about 32°C. Good pullup bar in Golobok, visible from GPX. 3200 RSD at Motel Castello in Smederevska Palanka. Pullups possible using carpet hanging bar in town central park.

countryside

Sun, 30 Jul 2023

Festival nearby last night, with thumping loud music until early morning, so slept poorly again. Late start, long lunch break, early stop, so short day. Path between Manastir Koporin and Manastir Pokajnica is very well waymarked but also very overgrown with nettles plus spider webs everywhere. I was carrying shirt wrapped around neckpurse to allow drying and dropped it while thrashing through overgrowth and spider webs, then had to backtrack kilometer to retrieve it. At least spider webs gone second and third passes through. Camped in patch of forest at side of road, about 20m from road but stealthy because foliage so thick at edge of forest. Forest open inside, as seen in photo below. Started raining and thundering just as I was setting up camp. Temperature dropped after rain began, so not too uncomfortable inside bugbivy. Legs itching from nettles however.

monastery koporin chapel

countryside

forest camp

Mon, 31 Jul 2023

Slept well enough, though somewhat warm and humid. Some mosquitoes in morning, but nothing like Saturday morning, so able to do pushups and rowing exercises and eat breakfast. Pullup bar in Markovac schoolyard along GPX. 3500 RSD at Hotel/Restaurant Talija in Svilajnac. Pullups possible using football goal in sports park near town center, or children's swing set in park just over the bridge crossing a stream through town.

morava river

Tue, 1 Aug 2023

Made booking.com reservation at Kuca za odmor Davidovic in Despotovac, but they had to cancel due to water problems and recommended Hotel TLS Company (phone +381 35 612 299, located on 9 Oktobra at Resavska near town center). 1500 RSD for room without air conditioning, but comfortable because temperature moderate today. Talked in French with hotel manager because he didn't speak English. This is fourth time I've used French to replace English/Russian in Serbia, so evidently popular foreign language here. No one admits to speaking Russian but they nevertheless usually understand my modified version because similar to Serbian. It would be nice to go slower and spend a few days in each of these small towns, but heat returns Thursday and Friday, so I want short days then, plus I want to get to Niš before Yettel service runs out so I can get another SIM, since who knows if these small towns sell tourist SIMs. Go slower on future treks.

old watermill

Wed, 2 Aug 2023

Pullup bar outside school south of Bigrenica, along GPX. Long day (over 30km) but moderate temperature and mostly dirt or gravel roads with no overgrowth, so pleasant hiking. 3000 RSD at Garni Hotel Plava Laguna in Ćuprija. Pullup bar behind Sokolski Dom, along GPX (central boulevard, Kneza Miloša) though gates might be locked early morning.

overcast sky in morning

Thu, 3 Aug 2023

Thumping music from outdoor cafe at hotel until midnight, so slept poorly. Skipped morning exercises other than pushups and did pullups in afternoon. Will give hotel in Ćuprija my first truly bad review ever on booking.com. Four rooms overlook cafe, according to emergency exit map on room, and thus affected by music. Absolutely no need to play disco music versus something without thumping bass. Room nice otherwise, though it would never be very nice because, even with quiet music or no music, impossible to leave window open. Instead, forced to use air conditioner regardless of outside air temperature.

Two days ago, made booking.com reservation for 2500 RSD for 1 night at Central Apartments Paraćin, but they sent SMS about noon today saying reservation canceled, with no explanation. Possibly related to mobile network outage in Paraćin, which made it impossible for me to contact either them or booking.com. Finally found open wifi network to allow Google Voice call to booking.com, and apartment owner eventually sent booking.com message saying they were canceling, so that situation resolved. I then made another reservation for 4600 RSD for 2 nights at Apartman Djuric Paraćin, but had to wait around two hours for owner to arrive. Used that time to follow up with booking.com regarding canceled reservation of Tuesday, which owner still hasn't approved. Plus made reservation by voice telephone for Saturday in Varvarin. Owner there only speaks Serbian and German but he understood my modified Russian. Mobile network working again in evening.

Whole hotel reservation system I'm using here in Serbia is fragile: dependent on mobile network, on honesty of private apartment owners to either provide accommodation or carry through with cancelation, on availability of hotels/apartments on booking.com, on ability of locals to understand English or my modified Russian or perhaps French. Everything easier in Spain and Bulgaria, because camping usually option if problem with hotel, plus I usually call hotel direct to make reservation or simply show up at hotel without reservation, so no booking.com intermediary to cause problems, plus hotels are more reliable than private apartments. Today was hot (35°C) and no forests nearby, so camping not really an option. Heat combined with stress of canceled reservation and mobile network outage had me in something of a state of fury at one point. Tomorrow will be hotter (38°C forecast) which is why I decided to stay 2 nights in Paraćin.

Pullup bars in Paraćin along Crnica creek, about 100m west of FK Borac Stadium.

maize field

Fri, 4 Aug 2023

Hellish heat today. Glad I'm not hiking.

Sat, 5 Aug 2023

Hot again (35°C and sunny) but under 20km and able to hike shirtless (or even better, shirtless with one arm carry) now that I have base tan, so bearable. 1500 RSD at Prenoćište-pansion Varvarin (Bose Cvetić 1, +381 63 633 042). Shared bath, no air conditioning in room (only in common area), and older furniture, but promises to be quiet and comfortable and provide better sleep than so-called luxury hotels, such as Hotel Plaza along the river here in Varvarin, which is 6200 RSD on booking.com. Pullup bars in park near center of town, just north of where GPX turns south. Thunderstorm in evening, with heavy rain and hail. Forecast of much lower temperatures henceforth: summer fever has finally broken.

morava river

Sun, 6 Aug 2023

All hell broke loose in afternoon thunderstorm. Good thing I didn't stay extra night in Varvarin, like I was considering, because dirt roads will likely be impassable tomorrow. As it was, muddy from yesterday's rain. Luckily, already back on paved roads when today's downpour began. Road leading into Kruševac covered with 10cm water for several hundred meters. 5600 RSD for 2 nights at IN Apartmani in Kruševac. Pullups possible using equipment at elementary school near tennis courts of sports complex. Full calisthenics park about 2km south of city center, along GPX.

Mon, 7 Aug 2023

Overcast and cool during day, rained in evening.

Tue, 8 Aug 2023

Overcast and cool again in morning, partly cloudy later in day. Ate breakfast with 2.5L kefir and water, left town with 4L water and 2 days food, in case no store in Ribarska Banja. Few mosquitoes during day but swarms of tiny flies attacking eyes and ears, so headnet mandatory. Mosquitoes plentiful at night, of course, but inside bugbivy then. Camped in beech forest about 21km past Kruševac.

overcast sky

camped amid beeches

Wed, 9 Aug 2023

Trail terribly overgrown between Rlica and Srndalje. Eventually found my way to forest road leading to Mala Reka, then solid gravel road lead to Srndalje. Small store near GPX endpoint for Ribarska Banja: bought fruit and yogurt to supplement food carried from Kruševac. 2700 RSD at Apartmani Lazić in Ribarska Banja. Tons of other lodging possibilities: almost every house had room/apartment for rent sign. Child-size pullup bar near spa.

Made bookings for next week, including Sofia. No vacancy in Bela Palanka, so camp past town.

Thu, 10 Aug 2023

Enjoyable hiking through forested mountains. Camped amud pines about 8km after Grebac, flat spot just off GPX, which follows abandoned dirt road here. Lots of mosquitoes and small flies.

camped amid pines

Fri, 11 Aug 2023

Beautiful hiking weather. Bought food for lunch at store in Lalinac. Pullups possible using children's swing, along GPX on way into Niš. 3500 RSD at Hotel La Casa. Pullup bars in Park Čair (near northeast corner).

looking back over fields towards mountains

Sat, 12 Aug 2023

Bought another Yettel SIM: 600 RSD for 15GB for 15 days, plus unlimited local minutes and SMS. Pullup bars in Brzi Brod, along GPX and in main park of Niska Banja. 2900 RSD at Guest Accommodation Zone. Big picnic table outside window of my room, so naturally guests in other rooms decided to sit there and smoke and drink and make noise until midnight. Window doesn't close properly and perhaps wouldn't block noise even if it did close properly. Air conditioner fan annoying and also didn't block noise. So just stayed awake until guests finally went back to their room. Gave hotel bad review on booking.com and will avoid in future.

Sun, 13 Aug 2023

Following Sićevo Gorge route. Picked up 4L water before leaving Sićevo. Old Roman military road (Rimski Put) starting to get overgrown with tree saplings and shrubs, but at least not many thorns. Camped on trail itself, about 7km GPX distance past Sićevo. Mosquitoes not so bad during rest stops during day, but terrible at campsite, maybe because approaching sunset.

sićevo gorge

camped on trail

Mon, 14 Aug 2023

Overgrowth worse than yesterday for another 3km, including blackberry and rose thorns. Small tears in both shirt and pants from these thorns. After emerging from overgrowth (10km GPX distance from Sićevo), take grass road in yellow labeled GP on map. Upon reaching paved road, stay on it to avoid another stretch of overgrowth. Water faucet in Krupac. Pullups possible using children's play equipment in Moklište. Bought food for tomorrow in Bela Palanka. Camped in forest about 5km GPX distance from center of Bela Palanka. Mosquitoes less bad than yesterday evening.

rest break along nišava river

camped in forest clearing

Tue, 15 Aug 2023

2400 RSD at ApartHotel Zoe in Pirot. Flimsy pullup bars where GPX initially reaches river path, better bars in sports park 1km further southeast along GPX river path.

pirot fortress

Wed, 16 Aug 2023

Trail overgrown and GPX slightly off in places, but not badly. 2400 RSD at Amfora Rooms Caribrod in Dimitrovgrad. Pullup bar at little park where GPX leaves town, east side of river.

Thu, 17 Aug 2023

Cross border into Bulgaria on foot.

Statistics

Total of 79 nights in Serbia, 72 nights in hotels, 7 nights camping. 193,020 RSD total hotel expenses, or average of about 2680 RSD per night (about $25 or €23) for 72 nights in hotels.

Comments

Regarding trail conditions on Sultan's Trail, see Hiking in Serbia page, which will be updated in future, whereas this page will not be updated.

Sultan's Trail north of Belgrade not worth repeating. South of Belgrade much better, though overgrowth with thorns is major issue. Need to add medium size Cordura tool holder to packing list, then buy pruning shears upon arrival in Serbia, discard before leaving.

No ticks encountered, including while camping. In some areas of the world, nymph ticks go dormant in July/August, after being active through June, then reemerge as adults in September. Possibly that is true in Serbia, though I'm not sure. However, did pick up chiggers during last few days of thrashing through overgrowth,causing terrible itching and oozing sores all over legs and buttocks.

Official guide breaks trail between Belgrade and Bulgarian border into 23 stages. I took exactly 23 days myself, using slightly different schedule from that of guide. By lingering in medium sized and larger towns with nice lodging, this section of trail could be stretched to 40 days (middle July to late August), with remaining 50 days, of 90 allowed on tourist visa, either in Belgrade or scattered among medium sized towns of Serbia not on Sultan's Trail, using buses to get around.

Starting 2024, Bulgaria will be in Schengen, so need several days in Macedonia, after stay in Serbia, to guarantee at least 90 days outside Schengen. No direct buses from Dimitrovgrad to Skopje, so probably best to take bus from Niš to Dimitrovgrad, hike backwards to Niš, then bus to Skopje, bus to Sofia. Nuisance, but less of nuisance than obtaining Schengen or Serbian residency.