Nov 2022 to Jan 2023, Mojave Desert Bicycle Tour

Not many photos this year. If interested in photos of area, see Nov 2021 Mojave trip report, which was same route, more or less.

Wed, 16 Nov 2022

Lost sleep hat while laundering Europe quilt and other items (insulated hat, sleep hat, pillow stuff sack, winter coat, knit hat, knit gaiter). Insulated pullover didn't need laundering. Used 1 package of Tide detergent from vending machine, extra-large washer on normal-warm cycle, 30 minutes drying at medium heat. Secret is to go early in morning on weekday, when laundromat almost empty.

Decided to stay at motel until Monday, because bitter cold and snow forecast for weekend, plus I don't want to arrive in Tonopah during Thanksgiving holiday.

Wed, 16 Nov 2022

Splitting headache, maybe flu or covid.

Sun, 20 Nov 2022

Some delay finishing backups. 5 microSD cards plus computer in storage locker, 5 microSD cards plus 2 smartphones carried. Smartphone internal storage now 128GB, so adequate to hold everything on microSD cards.

Google FI $20/month plan might work better than Mint for receiving 2FA (two factor authorization) SMS texts, because able to receive by forwarding to Google voice, so no problem if SIM lost or damaged while traveling, plus no need to insert SIM into backup phone. Whereas with Mint, SIM required to receive SMS texts. Plus Google $20/month gives unlimited data in USA whereas Mint $20/month only gives 10GB, not that I'm likely to exceed this limit. Advantage of Mint is that it supports true mobile roaming outside USA, in case local SIM fails and I need emergency service. Google FI $20/month is true mobile service in USA and true USA mobile USA, but final leg of voice/SMS connection outside USA is VOIP. Google Voice is VOIP everywhere, so not always acceptable for 2FA. Maybe switch when I return to Reno.

[Later] After further reflection, decided I am already too dependent on Google, which can cancel accounts without notice for criminal activity. No intention of committing criminal acts, but Google might mistakenly accuse me of such and then cancel Gmail accounts. Since Google Voice dependent on Gmail, better to leave mobile service with Mint. Maybe Mint or ATT supports forwarding to Google Voice. If not, why not? One thing I will definitely do is switch Google Voice to separate Gmail account from that used for other purposes.

Also confirmed what I suspected, which is that T-mobile gives Mint customers low priority during times of heavy network activity. And indeed I've noticed Mint slower than ATT. But still happy to have switched. Google FI also runs on T-mobile and also supposedly gets low priority.

Mon, 21 Nov 2022 (58 miles, 5:56 hours)

Starting odometer 24715. Left motel at 6:20, still dark outside. Carrying 10L water, 7 loaves (24oz bread, 6oz cheese), 4lbs peanuts, 7 * 100g dark chocolate, less what I ate for breakfast. Plan is to go slow, 7 nights, so as to reach Tonopah next Monday, after motels cleared of Thanksgiving travelers. [Possible to get to Tonopah in 5 days or even less, but best to always plan on 7 days, to allow for headwind, storms, injury, bicycle problems, etc.] Arrived at Mill Park in Carson City about 10:00, without stopping and not tired. Not sure why legs so much stronger than previous years. Maybe cool temperatures. Pullup bar at far east end of park. 20 minutes wait because of heavy machinery working on Fort Churchill road. Camped at usual spot.

Tue, 22 Nov 2022 (31 miles, 3:32 hours)

Cold last night. Bladders and bottles placed under gear to hold warmth, but nevertheless partially frozen in morning. Ground also frozen. Waited for sun to warm things in morning, so late start. Lots of snow remaining on ground from this past weekend and so it occurred to me that areas around Adrian Lake might be muddy, so stayed on Highway 95 to Julian Lane rather than usual route along dirt road west of highway following railroad. Rode shirtless until late afternoon.

Wed, 23 Nov 2022 (35 miles, 3:51 hours)

Not so cold as yesterday morning. Picked up water at Schurz police station. Pullup bar in adjacent park. Camped along Double Springs Road.

Thu, 24 Nov 2022 (27 miles, 3:23 hours)

Again well below freezing at night, but sun warmed things enough by 10am to exercise and eat breakfast shirtless. Rode shirtless as well.

Fri, 25 Nov 2022 (45 miles, 5:16 hours)

Up and exercising at 7:30, but this was mistake, because very cold and felt even colder due to wind, so had to put on poncho as wind break and wait for sun to warm things up. Finally warm enough to ride bicycle at 9:15. Shirtless by noon. Because of cold temperatures in morning, 8:30 probably earliest reasonable time to get out from under quilt, even if sun rises at 6:45. Long day today prepares for headwind or other problems tomorrow or Sunday.

While setting up camp, noticed wet spot on bottom of saddle bag. Bottle of chain cleaner leaked. Fortunately, chain cleaner is mostly just soap and water. Saddle bag holds tools, so possible damage to o-rings of tire pumps: need to check these tomorrow.

Sat, 26 Nov 2022 (57 miles, 4:37 hours)

Cold again in morning (below 20°F), plus cloudy and with wind from northwest. Rather than another 2 nights camped in cold, waiting around to get to Tonopah on Monday, decided to take advantage of tailwind and head for motel in Beatty. Bought food in Tonopah, enough to get to Bullhead City if added to 2 days food remaining in panniers plus planned top-ups in Shoshone and Baker: 7 * 24oz bread, 7 * 6oz cheese, 4lbs peanuts, 8 * 90g dark chocolate, vegetables to eat immediately. Ate lunch and repackaged food in athletic complex across from store, where there is pullup bar and buildings to provide shelter from cold wind. Camped at 5100 feet elevation (about 500 feet lower than yesterday), about 1 mile from highway 95, along road to Alkali. Tarp very noisy from wind for several hours, then wind finally died down.

Sun, 27 Nov 2022 (43 miles, 4:17 hours)

Cold in morning but riding shirtless by noon. Moderate headwind. Shoulders on highway excellent all day today and yesterday. Camped at 4300 feet elevation, plus further south, so should be warmer than previous nights.

Mon, 28 Nov 2022 (43 miles, 3:58 hours)

Not nearly as cold as previous mornings, but still some ice in bladder left uncovered. Moderate headwind. $79 through booking.com for room at Exchange Club Motel in Beatty. Very nice room: definitely stay here in future. Prior to checking in, pullups using bar of broken swing set in town park.

Washed saddle bag, to get rid of remnants of spilled chain cleaner. Inspected tools: everything looked okay. Put petroleum jelly on o-rings of pumps. Noticed one o-ring missing. Spares in repair kit, or maybe o-ring not really needed for pump to work.

Tue, 29 Nov 2022 (27 miles, 2:06 hours)

Camped along Valley View Road, on way to Amargosa Valley.

Some noise while pedaling. Thought it might be chain, so cleaned and lubricated but noise continued. Maybe bottom bracket, which was last replaced at about 11793 miles, according to notes, or over 13000 miles ago. Probably can ship replacement and tools to motel in Blythe when I get there.

Wed, 30 Nov 2022 (41 miles, 4:09 hours)

Rode shirtless in morning. Cold south headwind later in day. Camped 16 miles from Shoshone.

Noise mostly disappeared. Nevertheless, replace bottom bracket upon return to Reno, or maybe in Ridgecrest, just to be on safe side.

Thu, 01 Dec 2022 (21 miles, 2:58 hours)

Cold south headwind all day, plus sky cloudy or obscured by dust. Bought food at Shoshone store. Waited around several hours hoping for wind to diminish but no luck. Camped 5 miles south of Shoshone, behind hills for shelter. Day not very long in terms of time, but mentally and physically exhausting because of headwind.

camped behind hills

Fri, 02 Dec 2022 (50 miles, 4:55 hours)

Wind much reduced and sun out again until afternoon, so able to ride shirtless much of day. Camped 3 miles north of Baker. Finally warm enough to walk around in evening without pullover. Mint mobile very slow.

Sat, 03 Dec 2022 (21 miles, 2:46 hours)

Bought food at Country Store. Picked up water and did pullups in Baker town park, and partially charged one power pack there. Two other power packs still fully charged, so didn't need charging. Mint mobile connection much better than yesterday. Maybe distance to antenna was problem. Wind mostly disappeared, sunny and warm in afternoon, so rode shirtless. Camped along Kelbaker road.

Sun, 04 Dec 2022 (17 miles, 3:33 hours)

Mojave road sandier than ever. Miserable pushing for over an hour. Camped as usual near Beale mountain.

Front wheel flat, from wire embedded in tire and ripping tube open, causing sealant to leak out. Probably wire picked up yesterday or maybe many days ago, while riding on shoulder of highway, and finally pushed through tire today due to bouncing against rocks. As with last year's flats, today's might be blessing in disguise, because otherwise no practice with flat repair. Flat occured in afternoon, with warm temperature, little wind, in bright sunlight, on peaceful dirt road amidst beautiful desert scenery, no pressure to hurry because possible to camp nearby, so perfect working conditions. Compare with bitter cold and strong wind, like last week, near sunset, along busy noisy highway, with barbed wire fences on either side blocking access to campsites.

Mon, 05 Dec 2022 (34 miles, 4:43 hours)

Mostly cool and overcast, with gentle south wind. Able to get Mint Mobile connection at campsite.

Tue, 06 Dec 2022 (18 miles, 3:06 hours)

Overcast, cool, very little wind. Camped 4 miles west of highway 95. Excellent Mint mobile connection.

Wed, 07 Dec 2022 (31 miles, 3:34 hours)

2 nights at Days Inn in Bullhead City for $140 through booking.com. Would be $180 through Days Inn website.

Thu, 08 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Fri, 09 Dec 2022 (25 miles, 4:20 hours)

Started with 5 days food, 23L water, in case slow travel to Blythe due to headwinds or washed out roads.

Sat, 10 Dec 2022 (16 miles, 3:08 hours)

Headwind.

Sun, 11 Dec 2022 (13 miles, 2:03 hours)

Strong south headwind, then light rain in afternoon. Decided to cut day short. Camped just south of I-40.

Mon, 12 Dec 2022 (36 miles, 5:09 hours)

Wind much diminished. Overcast and cool. Powerline road about as sandy as last year. Pedaled on hard sand to west of road for several miles at end of day. Camped about 4.7 miles north of Cadiz Road.

Tue, 13 Dec 2022 (40 miles, 4:51 hours)

Beautiful day, light side or tail wind.

campsite in morning

Wed, 14 Dec 2022 (26 miles, 2:06 hours)

Light tail wind. $68 at Motel6 in Blythe.

Thu, 15 Dec 2022 (21 miles, 2:09 hours)

Beautiful day. Camped in desert southwest of Blythe.

Fri, 16 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Rodent chewed gear during night: bladder carrying straps, pannier straps, guylines, stake puller cords, saddle bag drawcord. Shouted but animal didn't leave, so had to get up and chase it away. Evidently, rodents in area losing fear of humans. Maybe day tourists leaving food scraps.

Sat, 17 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Sun, 18 Dec 2022 (22 miles, 2:36 hours)

$67 at Motel6 in Blythe.

Mon, 19 Dec 2022 (9 miles, 1:08 hours)

Camping north instead of south of Blythe. Rodent attacks on gear last year and this year both occurred south of Blythe.

Tue, 20 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Wed, 21 Dec 2022 (zero day)

campsite in morning

Thu, 22 Dec 2022 (13 miles, 1:38 hours)

$68 at Motel6 in Blythe.

Fri, 23 Dec 2022 (11 miles, 1:36 hours)

Sat, 24 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Sun, 25 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Mon, 26 Dec 2022 (13 miles, 1:50 hours)

$65 at Motel6 in Blythe.

Tue, 27 Dec 2022 (12 miles, 1:50 hours)

Overcast day, rain during night.

Wed, 28 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Sun out in morning.

Thu, 29 Dec 2022 (zero day)

Overcast.

Fri, 30 Dec 2022 (12 miles, 1:45 hours)

$130 for 2 nights at Motel6 in Blythe.

Sat, 31 Dec 2022 (zero day)

In addition to not taking many photos this trip, I'm not feeling much desire for traveling or camping anymore. But even less desire to own an apartment or sign a long-term lease. Maybe need longer stays in Reno, or longer town stays while touring, like 3 nights in motel, then 3 nights camping, etc. Or maybe tired of bicycle touring in general, all the extra gear issues compared to hiking, seen enough of the desert to satisfy me for a lifetime. Plan was always to give up bicycle touring when I reached age 70, then spend winters in Europe. Maybe give up at age 65.

Read on internet that most dark chocolate is contaminated with cadmium and lead, which are prevalent in soil where cacao trees grow in Africa, and so these metals get into beans. Decided to reduce daily consumption to 20 grams versus 100 grams currently.

Sun, 01 Jan 2023 (11 miles, 1:32 hours)

Rained heavily in early morning, sun out by 9am.

Thinking more about feeling of malaise. Bicycle touring gear hasn't disappointed me, quite the contrary, but not trivial to keep track of maintenance and replacement schedules, and I feel a need to simplify my life. So maybe three more winters desert bicycle touring then call it quits. After that, need place to spend winter. If not for war, 8 months in Kyiv, including both winter and summer, 3 months hiking in Spain, 1 month hiking in Bulgaria, would probably work well. But now need to wait and see what Kyiv is like once war is over. Might no longer be attractive place to live. If not Kyiv, then where? Maybe spend winter in motel in Reno.

Mon, 02 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Whole world seems to be falling apart. First covid-19 lockdowns, now war with Russia, which is obviously act one of long world war against USA hegemony/unipolarity. Later acts will involve China and Iran plus maybe Turkiye going rogue. USA could back down from insistence on hegemony/unipolarity without war, unfortunately politicians nowadays not rewarded for being sensible, as we saw with covid-19.

Tue, 03 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Some rain and wind last night, calm by morning, sunny day.

Perhaps malaise from not enough exercise. Always scrupulous about morning calisthenics and yoga, so body remains in top condition, but maybe additionally need 2+ hours hiking/bicycling to work off excess energy. Otherwise, unused energy goes to head and causes mental symptoms. But difficult to push myself to do this 2+ hours pointless hiking/bicycling or other physical activity. Whole reason for constant travel lifestyle is that 2+ hours/day physical activity occurs naturally, without forcing.

campsite

Wed, 04 Jan 2023 (12 miles, 1:27 hours)

$168 for 2 nights at Blythe Inn through Booking.com. Run down looking compared to Motel6, with strong unpleasant smell in room, but clean enough. Only one vehicle in huge parking lot, and that vehicle next to office, so maybe belongs to owner. Owner is friendly South Asian, like most motel owners now. Euro-American owners in decline for decades, then covid-19 lockdowns final nail in the coffin for many more.

Thu, 05 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Tried logging into Piraeus Bank of Ukraine but wouldn't accept my login credentials. Website different from last time I accessed it. Thinking of abandoning this bank plus Kyiv storage locker and maybe also Ukraine phone service, which were together intended to support moving permanently to Kyiv but are now something of a maintenance chore. Instead, be permanent tourist, live in hotels in Ukraine or Balkans during summer/winter but forget idea of permanent home there. Winter trip to USA each year for resupply (or for winter bicycle touring for next two years). Possible that air travel will be restricted in future. However, my desire to hike long distances each day is diminishing, so might be able to get two years use from boots instead of one, thus only necessary to visit USA for resupply every two years, which reduces air travel issue.

Needed this zero day in hotel. Camping too much partial cause of malaise.

Head sometimes feels dizzy when making sudden moves, such as turning from one side to the other while lying in bed at night. First noticed these symptoms several days ago. Don't recall ever noticing such symptoms in my entire life prior to several days ago.

Fri, 06 Jan 2023 (13 miles, 2:00 hours)

Sat, 07 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Sun, 08 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Malaise gone, along with dizziness. Maybe symptoms of another variant of covid-19. Desert peaceful past few days, but especially in the evenings. Zero wind, mild temperatures. Pretty blue bird visited several times today, perched on bush, watching me and my gear. Maybe also visited in the morning, while I was walking around, and ate bread crumbs left over from my breakfast.

Mon, 09 Jan 2023 (12 miles, 1:29 hours)

Thinking of taking bus from Reno to Ridgecrest next year, then 10-15 days travel to Blythe, 5-6 weeks around Blythe, 10-15 days travel back to Ridgecrest, bus back to Reno. Plan allows entire month of November in Reno, so possible to get some chores accomplished then rather than everything in February. Motels will be crowded on Thanksgiving, so need to make advance reservation if in Reno. Plan reduces difficulty of winter tour, so maybe continue bicycle touring indefinitely, versus quitting at age 65 like I was thinking last week. Now just need to get Ukraine back up and running for summer.

$192 for 2 nights at Motel6 in Blythe.

Tue, 10 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Wed, 11 Jan 2023 (36 miles, 5:12 hours)

Left town with 6 days food, 23L water. Moderate northwest headwind.

camped in brush

Thu, 12 Jan 2023 (30 miles, 4:38 hours)

Strong northwest headwind all day. Camped asking Cadiz road, two miles after Milliken mine.

Fri, 13 Jan 2023 (33 miles, 4:27 hours)

Wind finally diminished. Camped along route 66, two miles after Chambless.

Sat, 14 Jan 2023 (28 miles, 2:59 hours)

Overcast, cool, sprinkling of rain during day, then moderate rain in evening and during night. Camped at 1625' elevation, on way to Ludlow.

Sun, 15 Jan 2023 (28 miles, 3:35 hours)

Rain stopped before dawn. Cool with headwind. Camped about half mile from I-40, along mine road, about 33 miles from Yucca Ave in Barstow. Rain again in evening.

Mon, 16 Jan 2023 (38 miles, 4:39 hours)

Miserable pedaling into headwind all day. Cool and with sprinkling of rain/hail. $213 for 3 nights at Motel6 in Barstow. Finally out of that noisy wind.

Thu, 19 Jan 2023 (zero day)

$192 for 3 more nights at motel. Okay enough place and allows me to avoid another few days of unpleasant headwind. If not here in Barstow, then I'd be waiting in Ridgecrest to avoid getting to Reno too soon.

Sun, 22 Jan 2023 (19 miles, 2:49 hours)

Beautiful and peaceful all day, then ferocious wind after sunset, quieted down to steady cold north wind later.

Mon, 23 Jan 2023 (21 miles, 3:18 hours)

Sunny but cold north wind all day, stopped immediately after sundown. Put one bottle under backpack to protect from freezing.

Tue, 24 Jan 2023 (27 miles, 3:06 hours)

Ice in bottle left outside, but warmed up quickly as sun rose. Very little wind. Made reservation with Eastern Sierra Transit for Monday.

Wed, 25 Jan 2023 (19 miles, 2:20 hours)

Thu, 26 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Wind picked up strongly during night. Had to get up, lower front tarp pole, reset stakes, add 2 side stakes. Tarp quieter after that. Wind lessened by morning. Headache in morning, perhaps from covid relapse.

Fri, 27 Jan 2023 (11 miles, 1:11 hours)

3 nights at ANightsInn in Ridgecrest through booking.com for $193.

Sat, 28 Jan 2023 (zero day)

Splitting headache starting middle of night and lasting into morning. Maybe chemicals in room, maybe food poisoning.

Sun, 29 Jan 2023 (zero day)

No headache, so wasn't chemicals in room.

Mon, 30 Jan 2023 (11 miles, 1:25 hours)

Sneezing and runny nose, but no headache. Maybe headache Saturday was onset of another bout of covid-19 or ordinary flu. $25 Eastern Sierra Transit bus from Inyokern to Bishop. $81 at Motel6 in Bishop. Final odometer 25932.

Tue, 31 Jan 2023

$47 for Easter Sierra Transit bus to Reno. $470 for 7 days at Motel6 in Sparks. Rate rises to $495 next week.

Thu, 02 Feb 2023

Able to login to Piraeus Bank Ukraine using mobile app but not website, for some reason. Tried to make transfer to Ukraine storage locker company, using money remaining in Piraeus account (about $160), but unable to get app to work. Used Wise to transfer from USA bank instead. Wise didn't allow sending exact amount of rent due because of exchange rate volatility, but amount sent was only off by $2 and storage locker credited me several extra days for this anyway. Plan to get rid of Ukraine bank altogether, along with permanent Vodafone service. So just need to worry about storage locker in Ukraine. Keep storage locker active for another 5 years until I am thoroughly comfortable with it, then start loading with gear.

Tried to buy chain lube (White Lightning Epic Ride) at Walmart, but bicycle accessory shelves all empty and behind locked glass doors. Maybe shoplifters stole everything, then they installed lockable glass doors, but they still haven't gotten around to refilling shelves. Cosmetics department also appeared to have been ransacked by looters. This Walmart located on land owned by Native American reservation, which has its own police department. Presumably, Walmart chose this location because they have more influence over reservation police over than regular city police, due to taxes/rent paid by Walmart to the reservation, and so get better enforcement of law against shoplifting, but apparently that is not enough to keep things under control these days. So I'll just have to order online.

Fri, 03 Feb 2023

Placed various orders. Part of malaise back at beginning of year might have been due to subconscious awareness that various bicycle components are overdue for replacement and that I also need to rework my smartphone backup and replacement strategy, given how dependent I am on smartphones. Plus war in Ukraine makes me conscious of how my whole lifestyle is fragile and needs to be made more resilient.

Statistics and Comments

1,217 miles (1958 km) total, 149 hours pedaling/pushing, average of 8.2 miles/hour. Average of 25 miles/day, not counting zero days.

48 nights camping, 23 nights in motels. Total motel expense of $1656 including tax, for average of $72/night.

Total 141 nights camping for 2022.

See Nomad page for bicycle comments.